Understanding the Nyepi: Bali’s Day of Silence
For 24 hours the airport closes, the streets empty and the lights go out. What Nyepi asks of visitors, and why it is worth staying for.
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Sound Healing & Temple Water Rituals in Tampaksiring
Bronze bowls, cold spring water and a priest who has done this every morning for thirty years. Inside the purification rituals at Tirta Empul.
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Hidden Beach Clubs of the Bukit Peninsula
Past the Uluwatu crowds, the Bukit cliffs hide clubs with no queue and better sunsets. Six worth the drive down.
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The Culinary Renaissance of Fine Dining in Bali
Balinese chefs are cooking Balinese food for the first time in a generation. The restaurants leading the shift, and what to order.
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A Guide to Specialty Coffee in Canggu and Seminyak
Single-origin beans, Indonesian roasters and laptop etiquette. Where to actually drink coffee in Canggu and Seminyak.
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Navigating the Artisan Markets of Ubud
Ubud market opens at 3am for locals and 9am for everyone else. How to shop it properly, and what a fair price looks like.
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The New Wave of Bamboo Architecture in Sidemen Valley
In Sidemen, architects are building four-storey houses from grass. How bamboo went from cheap material to Bali’s most ambitious one.
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10 Secret Waterfalls in North Bali
The ones without a car park, a ticket booth or a queue. Ten waterfalls in the north, and how to reach them.
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Inside Ubud’s Slow-Food Renaissance
Fermentation cellars, foraged greens and farms fifteen minutes uphill. Ubud’s slow-food kitchens are quietly outcooking Seminyak.
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The Spiritual Meaning of Canang Sari
The palm-leaf tray on the pavement is not decoration. What goes into canang sari, who makes it, and why you should step around it.